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First Flatiron Route Options
Direct East Face (5.6, 10 pitches): This is the classic route to the summit of the First Flatiron. It starts with two pitches of pure friction slab climbing, so we always start with a friction climbing (smearing) clinic at the base of the route. As we climb higher, the pitches become easier, except for an exciting pitch near the summit ridgeline. Once on the ridge, easier scrambling brings us to the summit pinnacle, where we will enjoy views from Boulder and the Front Range below us to the peaks of the continental divide, including the “14er” Longs Peak behind. One rappel off the summit brings us to the descent trail.
North Ridge (5.4, 6 pitches): For less experienced climbers, the North Ridge allows us to bypass the difficult friction climbing on the Direct East Face, while still enjoying the exposed and airy ridgeline that bring us directly to the summit.
Southwest Face (5.3, 2 pitches): After rappelling off the summit, this “bonus route” involves steep climbing up a vertical face with huge handholds, which is a welcome departure from the calf-burning nature of the East Face routes. It’s a fun way to add on some exciting climbing to an already successful day.
Fandango (5.5, 7 pitches): An alternative to the Direct East Face if that route is crowded or intimidating, Fandango offers excellent friction and crack climbing at a slightly easier grade. It still requires good technique and is a long climb to the summit. A worthy route!
Baker’s Way (5.3, 6 pitches): This is the easiest route up the East Face of the First Flatiron, and is a great beginner climb if the Third Flatiron is closed to climbers due to Falcon nesting.
