SKIING THE NORTHEAST FACE OF LES COURTES
A STEEP CHAMONIX CLASSIC
This story picks up after yesterday’s adventure, skiing the Col des Cristaux. If you haven’t read that yet, check it out before starting this one.
The Northeast Face of Les Courtes from the Argentière Glacier below.
After attempting this line the day before but having to bail due to warming temperatures, we decided to stay the night at the excellent Refuge d’Argentière, directly across the glacier from Les Courtes. This would give us an early start on the line, which was necessary in the hot April sun. Most of the line in north-facing and was staying cold, but the sides of the couloir get morning sun and send sluff down the flanks of the line, threatening anyone climbing up the route.
Early morning light from the Refuge d’Argentière.
We woke up at 5AM and had a light breakfast of cereal and toast at the hut, before crossing the glacier and starting up the line. The bergschrund offered a small challenge, but we were across it quickly and began the sisyphean task of breaking trail up the 3,000-foot tall face.
Crossing the bergschrund on Les Courtes’ NE Face.
Our legs were tired from a similar bootpack the day before in the Col des Cristaux, but the promise of deep powder on one of the best runs of our lives kept the motivation high. After three hours of slow bootpacking, we finally reached the ridge at the top of the line. Looking down the backside of Les Courtes into the Leschaux basin towards the Vallée Blanche, Grands Jorasses, and Mont Blanc was one of the best views I’ve ever had in the Alps! Just spectacular.
From the top of Les Courtes, looking south towards Mont Blanc (right) and Grands Jorasses (left) and the Vallée Blanche glacier ski run in between.
After a brief rest at the top, we were giddy to drop in. Making turns down the 45-degree face, we found deep, cold, dry snow the wasn’t sluffing too much, but the steepness of the face mandated that we avoid any running snow, for fear of being carried off our feet and down the huge line. Each turn was dreamy, predictable, and smooth. I had never made turns this steep in snow so good on such a big face. It was other-worldly. Every turn my jaw dropped in disbelief at our luck.
Steep skiing looks intimidating, but if you’re doing it right, you’re skiing good snow! Every turn counts, but if the snow is good and you have some basic steep skiing technique, it’s not as hard as it looks. The challenge is mostly mental, allowing yourself to release your skis from their secure hold perpendicular to the fall line and letting them run straight down the face for a brief moment before finishing the turn and returning to the relative safety of facing across the slope. This commitment requires 100% confidence in your abilities and your equipment, and that commitment is what makes the sport so powerful. Rarely in life do we make a choice to put our fate into our own hands, taking all responsibility for the outcome. It’s a powerful, uplifting feeling. And that’s why we do it!
John Michael making powder turns down the 45-degree Northeast face of Les Courtes.
Turn after turn, we found incredible snow and steep terrain. Connecting big panels and weaving around a rock outcrop or two, we came to the final, long face of snow above the bergschrund that seemed to go on forever. We could really open it up on this pitch. On this face, I wasn’t worried about returning to the safety of my edges after each turn. I was able to connect turns and ski fast, knowing from my experience on the upper face that my sluff wouldn’t catch me. This was the money pitch, and the one I’ll remember the most.
Jeff opening it up on the lower half of the Northeast Face of Les Courtes.
Hopping across the bergschrund and back onto the glacier, we were filled with a sense of awe and accomplishment. Our legs were torched from the bootpack and fast-paced ski back down, but we both knew it was a line we wouldn’t forget. A week later, I’m still buzzing just thinking about it.
Stay tuned for more stories from skiing in Chamonix.
If you want to read about less-technical skiing in the Alps, check out my posts about the Freeride Haute Route from Chamonix to Zermatt and the Albula Traverse, from St. Moritz to Davos. Both are great town-to-town routes in the Alps with tons of moderate powder skiing.